An
illustrated journal of pleasure.
Paris, the capital of France and
celebrated throughout the western world as the “ City of Love” is also just as
well known as the “City of Art” ,and as frequent visitors will no doubt agree
there are many good reasons for both descriptions. In the 18th century the city was
also referred to as the “City of Light” after the first street lights in Europe
were installed on the rue Dauphine in 1763, but for me Paris will always be the
world capital of style and beauty.
In the Montmartre studio of Henri Landier
My first visit to Paris was also
the first opportunity I had to leave behind the (imaginary) safety of the
country I was born in. It was the early
spring of 1957, I was seventeen years old and had spent the best part of a
whole year organising this trip based around a fictitious cultural journey
around the museums and art galleries of Europe. Sufficiently believable to persuade my
father to lend us ( I took my thirteen year old brother with me ) his new Ford
Anglia motor car I took off armed not with a list of museums but a detailed map of the most direct route
from Paris to the South of France. The
truth was that in a purloined copy of The News of the World taken from my
father’s secret hiding place, I had read about a place called St Tropez, where dozens
of beautiful girls lay on the beach wearing only the bottom halves of their
tiny bikini swimsuits - and I was determined to find it. A colourful display of fresh fruit and vegetables
In those days ordinary people
like us were only allowed to take £50 out of the country without further
government approval, but that restriction didn’t bother us at all - as in any
case we were only able to raise £80 between us.
Packed and ready to go, with a tent
just about big enough for both of us and the bare minimum of everything else, we
were soon off in my father’s brand new car – courtesy of the Ford Motor Company
- who would probably have had a fit if they knew it was about to be chained
down to the floor of an old converted Hercules transporter plane. With a few shudders and roars we were off the
runway at Southend Airport, up in the air in seconds and soaring over the English
Channel. About a noisy and bumpy hour or
so later we landed at a small airport just south of Paris.
Erotica for sale on the Left Bank
Our destination for the first
night was a small camp site on the western outskirts of the city and it was an
easy route to follow then , even though it took us right through the very
centre of Paris . The camp site was a
pretty little place in a woodland setting right on the bank of the river Seine and
nothing like any other we had been used to on our UK holidays, which usually
consisted of a muddy field with practically no amenities except for a water tap
and very basic toilet facilities.
M. Rodin on the Right Bank
There was even a little cafe , where next morning we bought a delicious breakfast of warm croissants , a pot of rather sloppy jam and a huge cup of coffee each for next to nothing with some of the French money which we had already bought in England. It was so nothing like we had ever experienced in England, where our usual breakfast since birth had been stodgy tasteless porridge for six days of the week and a boiled egg on Sundays. We were even able to buy a huge bag of French fries – the kind of chips we had never seen before let alone taste, to take on the next stage of the journey. Delicious !.
Filming in Montmartre
After a fantastic continental tour with lots of exciting and unforgettable experiences behind us , almost four weeks later we landed back in the UK with a few pennies over three shillings left in my pocket – about 30p in today’s money and just enough then to buy a gallon of petrol to get us back home.
Les Abbesses.
Whatever the real purpose for our
voyage – and we did in fact manage to
see nine different countries and one or two museums as well - it actually
turned into a real eye opening journey of discovery, changing just about
everything I had so far been led to believe about foreigners and their way of
life – with immediate effect - and for the rest of my life too.
Music on the Metro
We did find St Tropez of course
and spent several days hiding at the back of the beach staring at the half
naked girls, then wandering around St
Tropez itself doing roughly the same thing.
That was also an eye opener of another kind. At some stage during our trip I said to my
brother “ one day I will live in this wonderful country” – and one day I really
did. But not only did I fall in love with Paris,
but ultimately with the whole of France , which over the passing years I have
spent a good deal of my life visiting, writing about and photographing.
Outside Moon City. Clichy
Seven years
passed quickly by before my next visit to Paris and by then I was in my early twenties,
with a wife and child. By my mid
twenties we had another child and I was running my own business with the
freedom and money to do virtually what I wanted and I spent much of the early
part of my married life experiencing all the things which were then only
available to a limited section of society.
My business (a niche sector of the world of art and antiques) took me
and my young, beautiful and glamorous wife all over the world, where together
we discovered many and diverse pleasures of life, with Paris regularly on the
menu. Fetish Club - Bvd Clichy
Later in
that same decade I discovered much more about the South of France including an
adult version of my previous schoolboy antics in St Tropez. Regular annual
holidays with our children to a variety of places along the Riviera always included
a stopover in Paris as well as some of the other main cities of the south. My personal and business interests in the
arts continued right throughout the 1970’ and 80’s requiring regular visits to
Paris and European travel soon became an essential part of life.
After my
divorce, life with my new partner continued in much the same mode except that by
then we had discovered a new and virtually unknown part of the South of France
called the Languedoc, an amazing part of the world every bit as abundantly
rewarding – if not more so - as anywhere else I had ever been.
I have lost
count of my many visits to this wonderful country over the past fifty years –
the last twentyfive in my second career as a photojournalist , but whatever the
time of year or the length of my stay – a fleeting visit, long weekend or extended
holiday this amazingly variable country, it’s capital and it’s people never ever ceases to surprise .
Paris – je t’aime – the photo-book.
is intended to be a cross between
a personal diary, a series of art and travel features , and just a little snippet
of modern history. Short, sweet and to
the point and most importantly - with over 150 photographic illustrations from
my personal archives - visually interesting as well as affordable to
prospective readers I am trying to produce a new genre of books – a cross between modern technology and
conventional publishing. We shall just
have to wait and see. Readers can see more pictures in this series on http://pinterest.com/markgolding/
m.g. 2013.