OUT AND ABOUT IN LONDON is basically a column that I
used to write for a local paper that was entitled ‘My East End – The Old and The New’ and I have kept on with it over the years just
for my journals. I usually stay roughly within the E1/City Boundaries but
venture a little further afield from time to time. Every month I will try and add something that
I hope will be interesting on to this HEADER.
Sept 2013.
Brick Lane and Spitalfields.
We still get the occasional visitors
from abroad or even other parts of the UK who have never visited this part of
London before and if they are here for long enough try to interest them in a
local day out. Short sweet and to the
point – and more importantly only a five minute bus ride away - it takes in
architecture , art , antiques , multi-cultural history , horror , fashion and
food all in one easy walkabout.
As we get off the number 25 bus on the south side of
Whitechapel High Street , across the
road and just about still inside the E1 boundary standing out amongst some of
the old remaining rag trade showrooms and fast food stores is The
Whitechapel Art Gallery. This fine looking red brick building, a masterpiece of Art Nouveau design has been
a recognised piece of art history almost from the moment it opened in 1901 bringing
the high and mighty from the worlds of art and finance to this impoverished
part of the East End of London – and now after a 2 year and 13.5 million pound
regeneration and extension it still does.
Piccasso's Guernica
Funded by wealthy
philanthropists it began life in 1891 as
The Whitechapel Library. Ten years later the main Gallery was added on to the
existing building and with a fanfare of publicity and works by Constable , Rubens and Hogarth the official opening of the new art
gallery took place in 1901. Over the
passing years The Whitechapel Gallery
has hosted work by some of the
worlds most celebrated artists. Artworks
by many radical artists from all over the world were given space here alongside
the more conventional and perhaps better known artisans and just a few of the
famous names have that have exhibited
here including Modigliani , Frida Kahlo
and Jackson Pollock. Picasso also
had an exhibition of his own work as well as a very special one in 1939, when
his famous picture Guernica hung in
the main gallery as part of an international anti-war statement.
In spite of its renown , unlike
the majority of other museum or galleries I have been to over the years it has
retained a certain atmosphere of ordinariness , making it a comfortable
place for people from all walks of life.
Although it now boasts a very posh restaurant as part of the new
building works - with matching prices of course - the French style bistro upstairs
where I still take the occasional lunch is still very much as it was , with
laid back service , serving lovely food and excellent wine all at very
affordable prices.
Brick Lane by night.
Only about 50 yards along the
road from the museum is Osborne Street
, just a short road which very quickly turns into that well known East End
highway Brick Lane, also known nowadays as Banglatown. A bit of an
unfair description as far as I am concerned, as although there are now lots of
Indian and Bangladeshi restaurants along
this long avenue, plenty of the old shops selling trendy and vintage gear still
remain.
This part of London was a regular
hang out for me in my teenage years, where no matter what time of the day ( or
night ) you could always find something interesting to do ,to eat or to drink -
and you probably still can. Almost at
the top of the lane is the Jewish bakery that opened its doors in 1901 , exactly
the same year that the Whitechapel Gallery
did theirs . Veer to the left and keep
on going and you will eventually come to Club
Row, notorious in days gone by for its dodgy antiques bought in the early
hours of the morning while it was still pitch dark, as well as almost every kind of animal and
bird - from huge parrots to cuddly little puppies and pussies. The animals are long gone, but you can still
find the oddest of things for sale here on a Sunday morning.
Fournier Street.
About half way down The Lane a few narrow streets on the
left hand side will take you into an area known as Spitalfields. All very
similar in appearance but with a veritable wealth of fine quality architecture my
favourite is Fournier Street. The houses here date mainly from the 1720s and with their fine wooden panelling and
elaborate joinery such as carved staircases, fireplaces and highly detailed
door-cases form one of the most important and best preserved collections of
early Georgian town-houses in Britain. They were originally occupied by French Huguenot
immigrants, wealthy craftsmen who brought
with them their masterful skills of spinning fine silks. The silk for
Queen Victoria's Coronation gown was woven
right here - at Howard House - number 14 Fournier Street.
At
the Western end of Fournier Street and opposite the new Spitalfields Market is
the magnificent Christ Church
designed by Nicholas Hawksmoor and
built in the mid-1870’s. At the other end is The Ten Bells public house, notorious for its connection with Jack the Ripper during the 1880s. Two
of his unfortunate victims were seen here just before their mutilated bodies
were discovered and all five of his victims lived close by. So there you are – the holy , the historic and
the horrific - all in less than 100 yards.
Town House - number 5 Fournier Street has been
carefully restored to it’s original splendour and during the daytime visitors
can actually get inside and take a good look around. That’s because some absolutely delightful and fascinating
people have made a home and a business in this wonderful historic and elegant house. There are three galleries on the ground floor
with an eclectic and tasteful collection of antiques and curios for sale and
old china, glasses and colourful modern pottery
in the downstairs kitchen, where they also serve a selection of nice
teas, coffees and cakes. I always call
in for a quick cuppa and relaxing sit down when passing by. There is also a separate apartment which is
available to let for short stays in this almost perfect location.
Only a few hundred yards away on the other side of Commercial Street is the old and the
new Spitalfields Market , a vast
collection of shops and stalls selling about everything under the sun,
plus restaurants of just about every size
and style from the gastronomic to the really ghastly. ENJOY.