ALL
WASHED UP at St Pierre.
The
A9 autoroute in South Western France sweeps in a wide arc following the Mediterranean
coastline from the Spanish border in the west to Montpelier in the east, and
nowhere is it much more than 15 km from the sea.
Some
are just tiny places, but others have plenty of facilities, like the Cap d’Agde
naturist village, set in 200 acres and known internationally as “The Naked
City”. By contrast the vast stretch of
open sands which extends for 20 kilometres from Marseillan plage to Sete is
just beach with the occasional ice cream seller by the roadside, where you can
park anywhere along the way to enjoy a quiet swim in the warm Mediterranean and
lay out in the sun to dry off.
With
so much choice its difficult to say which is the best place for a day out , but
our favourite one of all must be the naturist beach of St Pierre. Although it’s probably the furthest away from
the autoroute and you have to drive across a small mountain range called le Clape
to get there, it’s still only about 25K
and in any case the road is good and there are spectacular views en route right
over to the sea in the distance.
The
naturist beach at St Pierre lies just in
front of what in wintertime is a large shallow inland lake. All along this unique coastline, separating
the sea from the land are a number of these inland lakes called Etangs. Some are small and shallow, others are huge
and up to three or four metres deep, but they all serve the same purpose.
They are an essential part of a vast ecosystem which formed itself naturally
millions of years ago, in which filtered sea water turns into fresh water and
has been carefully maintained and looked after by the local inhabitants for many thousands of years.
Some
of these lakes remain full all year round, but others like the one at St Pierre,
holds water only during the winter and in summertime reverts back to hard flat sand
which vehicles can safely drive over .
Two
major rivers, the Aude and the Herault flow into the sea here ,with only about
40 kilometres between them and after an exceptionally wet winter one or another
of them ( or sometimes both) will flood, sending a massive amount of river
debris including huge logs and sometimes even whole trees out into the ocean. Eventually
most of it is washed up by the tide on some beach or another then mostly washed
back out again with the next one, but not always.
At St Pierre the beach is so deep that a
really high tide will wash big chunks of tree trunk high up on the sands, too
far to be taken back by any ordinary tide where they may remain for many years
to be bleached and twisted by the wind and sun into strange shapes and colours
like mysterious creatures from another world. At
the back of this long deep beach are soft sand dunes covered in wild grass and
behind them a small stream runs from the main river some distanceaway. Apart from the odd few naturist visitors it
remains pretty much undisturbed , rather like a kind of nature reserve with a
sweet aroma of flowers and herbs mixing in with the fresh sea air. Pretty butterflies flit from flower to
flower, the insects buzz in unison and gulls and terns screech out loud as they
dive into the water to catch the small fish swimming in the stream.
This
wild beach is a really wonderful place, providing a very natural environment that is perfect for
naturism. The incredible animalistic like debris would make ideal props for a
science fiction film perhaps, or in our case for the unusual photo
shoot which I have used to illustrate this article.
m.g. (c)
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