Sunday 5 February 2017

The Whirlpool of the Eye of Sweet Water

The Whirlpool of the Eye of Sweet Water -  A naturist lifestyle/travel feature.

The wild rugged lands of the Languedoc area of Southern France stretch all the way from the Rhone Valley to the mountain foothills of the Spanish Pyrenees.  Its long golden coastline is washed constantly by the warm waters of the Mediterranean sea under an almost perfect sun, but until about 60 years ago this magnificent landscape was virtually unknown .   Over the passing years the coastal regions have been developed and now boast some of the most popular naturist sites in the whole of Europe , but as for the rest of this area apart from not much more than a handful of major cities the remainder of this vast wilderness remains a place of myth and mystery , much as it has for thousands of years.  


Regular visitors to Cap d’Agde will know that Agde itself is the second oldest town in the whole of France and was colonised by the Greeks in the 6th century.   A couple of hundred years later the Romans arrived and made Narbonne the capital of Roman Gaul.    The emperor Hadrian took his army complete with elephants on his march from Moorish Spain right through the Langudoc on his way to lay siege to Rome and many relics of his historic journey remain en route.  


A bit later on the Cathars , a strange breakaway religion were driven into the region from other parts of France where they remained for many years, building the most incredible remote mountain strongholds before eventually being wiped out by a bunch of equally religious fanatics.   


We were fortunate to be able to spend most of our summers in the early 1990’s in the Aude and were often around when some new ancient site was discovered, frequently in the process of attaining national protective status. Not only were these places of prime historic interest, but because of their  isolation made an almost perfect backdrop for our naturist photography


Until it was developed, principally as a small holiday resort for the French residents of Narbonne to escape the hot summer months, St Pierre sur Mer was not much more than a tiny fishing port and a few odd houses.   We found it almost by accident by following a signpost on the main road to ‘Naturist Beach’ and soon became regular visitors .  On the way home from the beach one day we saw a new sign directing visitors to a place called le Goffre de la Oeil douce and decided to take a look.   About the best translation I can make of this is ‘The whirlpool of the eye of sweet water’  – a spectacular geological curiosity  and probably something to do with the quality of the water.  


Just on the outskirts of the Massive de la Clape, a small mountain range which separates the City of Narbonne from the coast it is within a spectacular limestone chasm at the very heart of which is an almost perfectly circular lake.  We arrived at about 3 pm one weekday to find a neat and tidy carpark,  open gates and absolutely no one at all around.  The information boards told us that myths and mystery –and even fear - surround this place , although we found it gave off a feeling of absolute peace and tranquillity.  It’s source is still unknown , it’s pure clear waters never ever drop or rise  and no one knows how deep it is although it is said that some years ago Jaques Cousteau took one of his submersibles there but failed to reach the bottom- and none has tried since. Swimming is not recommended but neither it is banned. 


After taking lots of pictures of the impressive surroundings , as we were alone off came our clothes for a nice long  session of naturist photography.  It was an incredibly peaceful place with that wonderful natural aroma of plant life where the fresh air from the sea and mountain came together
Following the signs we eventually came to another part of  the site,  a small farm which  was now obviously too small to be profitable and had now become a part  of this unusual protected site.


A number of pieces of old agricultural implements stood around the beautifully restored 18th century farmhouse – but still no sign of any other human life except our own.    Wandering around we came upon a well maintained paddock where a couple of fine looking horses came over to take a look at us and where we also almost stumbled over a some wild looking black pigs wandering around like a couple of pet dogs . We had got dressed by now but as we still appeared to be alone,  got undressed for a few more pictures before leaving.  



Over the years we discovered many more of these interesting historical or geological wonders and recorded our visits for posterity.  There were so many that I could write a book about them – and maybe one day I will.







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