THE HISTORIC AREA OF WAPPING

Immediately adjoining  the CITY OF LONDON , the district of Wapping is the furthermost point on the North side of the RIVER THAMES that could once be reached by the large cargo ships bringing their multitude of goods to England.

Here , in the 18th and 19th centuries , many of the shops and houses originally bordering the old city walls were demolished in order to build the huge pools , basins and warehouses which made up the NEW LONDON DOCKS at WAPPING.

These multi-storied and often vaulted warehouses , were originally built to store  the most expensive of the multitude of goods which were imported into the country at that time .    Fine Wines , Brandy &  Tobacco , Silks , Ivory and rare Spices were amongst the many commoditities stored here.   Right near their CITY homes , it was a local and convenient dealing place for the rich LONDON merchants , who had put up much of the money needed then for this huge development.

All the usual utilities necessary to support a development of this kind were gradually built alongside the many dockside wharves and warehouses.    Many more public houses and inns were added to the abundant supply already in existence , which in turn attracted even more visitors to the area.    

Later on , as Wapping developed more generally it became one of the  busiest and liveliest parts of London .  Seamen of all nationalities mingled  with the variety of  other workers going about their  business of delivering , collecting , buying and selling that was a part of the essential daily life of docklands.   Not just during the day either -  for the hustle and bustle of Wapping went on round the clock.   

Wapping , together with the  adjoining district of Whitechapel soon became one of the most notorious parts of London.   Drinking and debauchery , and much much more became the order of the day.  It was the haunt not only of 'Jack the Ripper' but of many  other murderous and villainous scoundrels of the period.  Dead bodies were regularly hauled out of the Thames at WAPPING STAIRS  in the mist shrouded early hours of the morning.  Some had gone in just 'dead drunk' , while others had perhaps met a more horrible end.

After the 1940 -45 war , the goods coming into all of London's docklands gradually reduced in quantity .  From the mid-1960's onwards this huge part of the Thames-side started on a downwards decline which ended eventually in the total closure of all the docks.  In 1968 The LONDON DOCKS  ceased to operate completely and the whole area it occupied , including Wapping , soon fell into a very poor state of repair.

In the early 1980's  this sad decline was thankfully reversed when the whole area was designated  a conservation area .    Millions of pounds were set aside to re-develop this unique river-side site.    The old docks and basins were filled in , the old canals were restored and joined together with new links , and extensive landscaping took place in the surrounding areas.   The multitide of  Georgian and Victorian warehouse buildings , houses and customs offices , most  of them already historically listed and protected properties , were superbly restored and converted into new housing , shops and offices.

These magnificent buildings and their newly built counterparts , many of them overlooking the River Thames , now form some of the most luxurious and expensive properties in the whole of London . 

THE PUBLIC HOUSES OF WAPPING.

It was sometimes necessary in this process of re-development and total  refurbishment to occasionally pull down one building or another.  Serious drinkers will be pleased to hear that none of the pubs of Wapping ( or in fact in almost  any  other part of docklands ) suffered that horrific fate.  Visitors will often see the 'pub' left standing completely on it's own where it once stood in the middle of a row of houses or shops.

As well as the more well known pubs along the Thames foreshore of Wapping High Street , like The Prospect of Whitby ( said to be the oldest in London ), The Captain Kidd and The Town of Ramsgate , there are many others with just as interesting a historical backgound. 

Just off of Wapping Lane there is a small pub , left like many of it's contempories standing almost alone among the new developments. 

THE OLD STAR  now re-named TURNERS OLD STAR has it'self undergone a complete but very sympathetic refurbishment in the last few years.  Affixed to the front wall of the pub , and a part of this new work is a sign  beautifully scripted in black and gold.     It reads:

JOSEPH TURNER

1775 - 1861

Brought up in London , Turner was always fascinated by the Thames. Water and ships were a major source of inspiration in his works and the riverside area of London was to remain his homebase all his life.

Turner was held in high regard by all his contempories and was rewarded with both critical acclaim and considerable wealth. Although something of a society figure he was more at home among the bustle and debris of London's docklands.

TURNERS SECRET LIFE

Turner was exceptionally secretive , especially over women. From the age of 25 he was to keep several mistresses who were to bear him 4 illegitimate children.

Although he never married , women always played can important part in Turners life. His vigourously sensual side was to emerge in the copious quantities of erotic drawings discovered amongst The Turner Bequest on his death.  These were supposedly executed during weekends of drunken debauchery amid the dockside taverns of Wapping.

PUGGY BOOTH

In 1833 Turner met Sophia Booth , a widowed landlady frokm Margate who was to become his mistress until his death in 1851.   When Turner inherited two cottages in the dockland area of Wapping he converted them into a tavern and installed Mrs Booth as the proprietor.  He named the tavern The Old Star.

To maintain secrecy during their life together Turner adopted her surname. This , combine with his 5' height and portly physique was to earn him the nickname PUGGY BOOTH.

Back into Wapping Lane and almost opposite the Star is another ancient Pub , The Three Swedish Crowns.  A litle further down the lane is yet another period Inn , called The White Swan and Cuckoo.

All these old pubs are now filled with a cosmopolitan crown of drinkers.   A few of the old original inhabitants of docklands, London cockneys and descendants of the early ethnic immigrants rub shoulders with the trendy bankers , lawyers and yuppies that have now made their homes here , as well as the many tourists that are slowly getting to know about the area. 

For a pleasant walk of about an hour or so , go through our gate onto the new canal stopping briefly to feed the ducks , then walk down past Tobacco Dock and turn right into Wapping Lane.    You will see The Old Star across the green on your right and maybe stop in one or another of the local pubs for a quick refreshment.  

Turn right again at the end of Wapping Lane and stroll down the old cobbled streets of Wapping High Street.   Here , on both sides of the road there are many of the beautifull and original old restored Georgian and Victorian Houses and converted Warehouses. 

At the end of the road you will find another unusual pub , once again standing on it's own with the buildings around it either having fallen or been pulled down.   Named after one of the many vessels that brought  it's valuable cargo up the Thames and into London is 'The China Ship'.

Carry on , with the river Thames on your left along St Katherines Way until you reach the entrance into St Katherines Marina through the entrance to Devon House.   Pass the new Tower Hotel and up the stairs onto TOWER BRIDGE.

From the middle of the bridge look downriver and see the River Police Headquarters on your right just by Wapping Stairs with the tower of Canary Wharf just peeping over the top of the buildings lining the river bank. 

In front of the Tower Hotel , which dominates this part of the riverside , is the new Pierhead and walkway for the Riverbus and other river leisure craft.

Go back down the stairs and along the Northern side of St Katherines Dock passing in front of the little shops that have been converted from the Old Ivory House. Built in the  Italianate style in 1854 , this magnificent original warehouse building  has now been converted into luxurious apratments , shops , offices and restaurants.

Scattered around the sides of the docks you will spot huge lumps of stone , one piled upon the other.   These great lumps of hewed rock are about the only remnants still left over from the old days when St Katherines was a real working dock.  They were used as ballast to replace the cargoes unloaded from the sailing barges , to give them the stability they needed as they rode the waves back down-river for yet another load. 

Finally , leave the old dock through the car park , cross St Thomas More Street and back into the main  entrance of Quay 430.