THE
HISTORIC AREA OF WAPPING
Immediately adjoining the CITY OF LONDON , the district of Wapping
is the furthermost point on the North side of the RIVER THAMES that could once
be reached by the large cargo ships bringing their multitude of goods to England.
Here , in the 18th and 19th
centuries , many of the shops and houses originally bordering the old city
walls were demolished in order to build the huge pools , basins and warehouses
which made up the NEW LONDON DOCKS at WAPPING.
These multi-storied and often
vaulted warehouses , were originally built to store the most expensive of the multitude of goods
which were imported into the country at that time . Fine Wines , Brandy & Tobacco , Silks , Ivory and rare Spices were
amongst the many commoditities stored here.
Right near their CITY homes , it was a local and convenient dealing
place for the rich LONDON merchants , who had put up much of the money needed
then for this huge development.
All the usual utilities
necessary to support a development of this kind were gradually built alongside
the many dockside wharves and warehouses.
Many more public houses and inns were added to the abundant supply
already in existence , which in turn attracted even more visitors to the
area.
Later on , as Wapping
developed more generally it became one of the
busiest and liveliest parts of London .
Seamen of all nationalities mingled
with the variety of other workers
going about their business of delivering
, collecting , buying and selling that was a part of the essential daily life
of docklands. Not just during the day
either - for the hustle and bustle of
Wapping went on round the clock.
Wapping , together with
the adjoining district of Whitechapel
soon became one of the most notorious parts of London. Drinking and debauchery , and much much more
became the order of the day. It was the
haunt not only of 'Jack the Ripper' but of many
other murderous and villainous scoundrels of the period. Dead bodies were regularly hauled out of the
Thames at WAPPING STAIRS in the mist
shrouded early hours of the morning.
Some had gone in just 'dead drunk' , while others had perhaps met a more
horrible end.
After the 1940 -45 war , the goods coming into all of London's docklands
gradually reduced in quantity . From the
mid-1960's onwards this huge part of the Thames-side started on a downwards
decline which ended eventually in the total closure of all the docks. In 1968 The LONDON DOCKS ceased to operate completely and the whole
area it occupied , including Wapping , soon fell into a very poor state of
repair.
In the early 1980's this sad
decline was thankfully reversed when the whole area was designated a conservation area . Millions of pounds were set aside to
re-develop this unique river-side site.
The old docks and basins were filled in , the old canals were restored
and joined together with new links , and extensive landscaping took place in
the surrounding areas. The multitide
of Georgian and Victorian warehouse
buildings , houses and customs offices , most
of them already historically listed and protected properties , were
superbly restored and converted into new housing , shops and offices.
These magnificent buildings and their newly built counterparts , many of
them overlooking the River Thames , now form some of the most luxurious and
expensive properties in the whole of London .
THE PUBLIC HOUSES OF WAPPING.
It was sometimes necessary in this process of re-development and
total refurbishment to occasionally pull
down one building or another. Serious
drinkers will be pleased to hear that none of the pubs of Wapping ( or in fact
in almost any other part of docklands ) suffered that
horrific fate. Visitors will often see
the 'pub' left standing completely on it's own where it once stood in the
middle of a row of houses or shops.
As well as the more well known pubs along the Thames foreshore of
Wapping High Street , like The Prospect of Whitby ( said to be the oldest in
London ), The Captain Kidd and The Town of Ramsgate , there are many others
with just as interesting a historical backgound.
Just off of Wapping Lane there is a small pub , left like many of it's
contempories standing almost alone among the new developments.
THE OLD STAR now re-named TURNERS
OLD STAR has it'self undergone a complete but very sympathetic refurbishment in
the last few years. Affixed to the front
wall of the pub , and a part of this new work is a sign beautifully scripted in black and gold. It reads:
JOSEPH
TURNER
1775
- 1861
Brought up in London , Turner
was always fascinated by the Thames. Water and ships were a major source of
inspiration in his works and the riverside area of London was to remain his
homebase all his life.
Turner was held in high regard
by all his contempories and was rewarded with both critical acclaim and
considerable wealth. Although something of a society figure he was more at home
among the bustle and debris of London's docklands.
TURNERS
SECRET LIFE
Turner was exceptionally
secretive , especially over women. From the age of 25 he was to keep several
mistresses who were to bear him 4 illegitimate children.
Although he never married ,
women always played can important part in Turners life. His vigourously sensual
side was to emerge in the copious quantities of erotic drawings discovered
amongst The Turner Bequest on his death.
These were supposedly executed during weekends of drunken debauchery
amid the dockside taverns of Wapping.
PUGGY
BOOTH
In 1833 Turner met Sophia
Booth , a widowed landlady frokm Margate who was to become his mistress until
his death in 1851. When Turner
inherited two cottages in the dockland area of Wapping he converted them into a
tavern and installed Mrs Booth as the proprietor. He named the tavern The Old Star.
To maintain secrecy during their life together Turner adopted her
surname. This , combine with his 5' height and portly physique was to earn him
the nickname PUGGY BOOTH.
Back
into Wapping Lane and almost opposite the Star is another ancient Pub , The
Three Swedish Crowns. A litle further
down the lane is yet another period Inn , called The White Swan and Cuckoo.
All
these old pubs are now filled with a cosmopolitan crown of drinkers. A few of the old original inhabitants of
docklands, London cockneys and descendants of the early ethnic immigrants rub
shoulders with the trendy bankers , lawyers and yuppies that have now made
their homes here , as well as the many tourists that are slowly getting to know
about the area.
For a
pleasant walk of about an hour or so , go through our gate onto the new canal
stopping briefly to feed the ducks , then walk down past Tobacco Dock and turn
right into Wapping Lane. You will see
The Old Star across the green on your right and maybe stop in one or another of
the local pubs for a quick refreshment.
Turn
right again at the end of Wapping Lane and stroll down the old cobbled streets
of Wapping High Street. Here , on both
sides of the road there are many of the beautifull and original old restored
Georgian and Victorian Houses and converted Warehouses.
At
the end of the road you will find another unusual pub , once again standing on
it's own with the buildings around it either having fallen or been pulled
down. Named after one of the many
vessels that brought it's valuable cargo
up the Thames and into London is 'The China Ship'.
Carry
on , with the river Thames on your left along St Katherines Way until you reach
the entrance into St Katherines Marina through the entrance to Devon
House. Pass the new Tower Hotel and up
the stairs onto TOWER BRIDGE.
From
the middle of the bridge look downriver and see the River Police Headquarters
on your right just by Wapping Stairs with the tower of Canary Wharf just
peeping over the top of the buildings lining the river bank.
In
front of the Tower Hotel , which dominates this part of the riverside , is the
new Pierhead and walkway for the Riverbus and other river leisure craft.
Go
back down the stairs and along the Northern side of St Katherines Dock passing
in front of the little shops that have been converted from the Old Ivory House.
Built in the Italianate style in 1854 ,
this magnificent original warehouse building
has now been converted into luxurious apratments , shops , offices and
restaurants.
Scattered
around the sides of the docks you will spot huge lumps of stone , one piled
upon the other. These great lumps of
hewed rock are about the only remnants still left over from the old days when
St Katherines was a real working dock.
They were used as ballast to replace the cargoes unloaded from the
sailing barges , to give them the stability they needed as they rode the waves
back down-river for yet another load.
Finally
, leave the old dock through the car park , cross St Thomas More Street and
back into the main entrance of Quay 430.
